Day 18: Monday 14 April 2014

Today was my first day out in the field in the Ypres salient.  What's a salient I can hear you all say, so I will explain as briefly and simply as possible.  In military terms a salient is where your lines bulge into the enemy's lines.  In the case of Ypres, the British held the town of Ypres and a bow shaped line of trenches around it.  The Germans also held a bow shaped line of trenches around Ypres but a little further out.  The Germans had the advantage that their trench line was also on a series of ridges so they looked down on the British trenches and the town of Ypres.  Holding the high ground is very important for observing the enemy and lobbing artillery shells on him.   Neither side really like a salient, for the army on the inside of the salient they are sorta surrounded on three sides, for the army on the outside of the salient they have enemy lines bulging into their front lines.


Both the Germans and the British made various attempts to straighten out the salient, generally unsuccessfully and at a huge cost of men and material.


So for my first foray into the field I decided I would have a look at he battle of Messines.  Messines was the first of a series of battles undertaken by the British from June  to October 1917 in an attempt to straighten the salient and force a breakthrough of the German lines.  The attack at Messines was a victory for the British and vindicated a new tactic of "bite and hold".  Our old friends the 3rd Division AIF, including the 40th Battalion, played a big role in this battle and contributed to the British taking the town of Messines and the Messines ridge.  Using the guidebook "Anzacs on the Western Front" and the 40th Battalion history, called strangely enough "The Fortieth" I was able to follow the battle and the battalion's part in it very closely.  The New Zealand division also played a big role in this action and they have a couple of memorials in the area.

British cemetery in Ploegsteert Wood - 40th Btn forming up area

Restored German trenches and pill box

Although it was cold early in the morning it was a great day to be tramping around the Belgian countryside.


Talking about Belgians, they haven't got any better since last time I was here with Flashy.  They are still dour, humourless and close to rude.  They seemed to have missed out on the sense of humour of the Dutch and the personality of the Germans.  They also don't appear to have suffered to much in the GFC.  The whole place looks very prosperous, I'll bet they weren't contributing much to bail out the rest of Europe!  And don't get me started on Belgian bike riders!

Cloth Hall and market square at night - Ypres

Dinner tonight was, wait for it, prawn croquettes (delicious again) and roast chicken (a whole little chicken) with the inevitable fries and a green salad and a couple of local beers.  I haven't had mussels yet so there is a delight to look forward to.